Culture shock, getting lost in translation,…we were warned.
But after the chaos of Rome, we were met with everything being clean, impossibly efficient, courtesy, politenes, and unheard of customer service. Even the sushi in the 7-11 was yummy. This was in the airport.
The only shock has been how wonderful traveling Japan is (Living here? That could be another story… You know all about that Ang and Jenny).
Turns out all of Japan values courtesy, and respectful behaviour. Two weeks and 4 cities and towns later, we still see and feel this.
Holding together 130 million people in an area the size of Germany or Newfoundland takes some doing.
Ironclad discipline, binding traditions, unifying spirit, common values, core beliefs…and RULES.
Many are stated and repeated: Where to walk. How to queue. Silence. No talking on cells on public transportation.
Sure we have rules back home. But almost everybody abides by them here.
Many RULES go unsaid, but are clearly and universally understood: Respect for elders. Women and younger folk are further down the food chain. Individuality doesn’t belong. Conform or suffer the consequences.
Our hosts Koki and Kseniya bucked this trend. More later. The salaryman doesn’t. Again, more later.
Sumos:
No tournaments were on but we got to see them practice. Chuckle if you will at the attire, but they’re stacked amidst the layers. About the only large people we saw….everybody else is svelte like me!
Tokyo National Museum and Zoo:
Took forever to assemble all the Kamono layers, especially with Trish
In typical Japanese fashion, they only showed 3% of their collection….my fav being these 1300yr old Buddha reliefs plundered from China
Silence is such a virtue that soft soled shoes are offered by the museum so your heels don’t disturb others
Lacquered saddle with inlaid something, can’t remember…..information overload
Sad but cute, eh?
Throne Scene
We were almost late for our first Kabuki theatre (which was disappointing) because of the joys of sitting on this throne/toilet.
Light comes on as you enter.
Operational Procedures:
First you sanitize the seat with spray.
You hit the seat warmer.
You squat and do your business.
You hit the music switch to ensure no one is disturbed by your…disturbance.
You hit deodorizer, if necessary.
You apply paper.
You hit the personal pleasure switch, aka the spray that shoots up your darkest hole.
You adjust spray if desired and try not to giggle.
You hit off switch and rush off to theatre.
Then you wait for Home Depot to begin stocking these.
Security
You know Japan is safe when Lenny and Squiggy run security.
Yanaka and The Family Plot:
Our fav hood, old, arty, Tokyo with narrow car-free streets with nearby wicked cemeteries of shoguns,samurai and commoners.
Tokyo Tree (tower) in background
Eating out
Homes are tiny by North American standards. People don’t entertain like we do. But they eat out in a serious way without having to break the bank. And really, if you saw nothing but the inside of small fast eateries in Tokyo, you would have done well.
This ramen house near Koki and Kseniya’s spacious apt (by Tokyo standards) was our first. Two weeks and many bowls later, still the best.
Grilled oysters
Wayne does part time gig fanning the yakitori.
Koki and Kseniya took us to a traditional izakaya eatery. Kinda like a greasy spoon but with local, homespun delicacies augmenting sake. Often fav haunts of the salaryman.
The Salaryman
Perhaps nothing epitomizes Japan’s sea of conformity like the salaryman.
The Japanese learn to dress uniformly while in school.
By the time they become corporate worker bees, they can expect to be treated like garbage early in their careers. Work like dogs. Toe the line. and dress the same white Oxford shirt, dark blue suit, black dress shoes.
Many salarymen don’t make it home. ‘Hostess’ provide them with song, or dance, or drink, or as much physical contact as you want, no need to worry, wifey is looking after junior. It’s the way things roll with many worker bee salarymen.
Oedo Antique Market:
The Anomalies
Also known as our wonderful hosts, Koki, from near Kobe, and Kseniya, from Russia since age 7 but still with a thick Russian accent with her English. He’s an engineer. Not a salary man. She manages various international offices as a consultant.
They’re anomalies in that he walked away from his career to follow her to Hungary where she advanced her career. Pretty non traditional, un-macho move, dude… We tip our hats to you. You’d think being a gaijin/foreigner and a female were two strikes on here this very regimented society. But it’s the third strike that is the most unusual as She became boss lady at a young age. Quite an accomplishment.
They’re an international couple in a country that is 98.5% ethnically Japanese.
But they will hopefully immigrate to an English speaking country. Right kiddies? We owe them big time for giving us lots of advice, showing us how to order sushi in the conveyer belt restaurants and schooling us in Japanese culture.
Something Fishy
In the world’s biggest fish market, Tsujiki
No that’s not cocaine, but just as expensive…tuna
Eel….yummy eel… A delicacy bbqed with soya
Crab so fresh they hadn’t cleaned sand off
Bright Bright Lights, Big City
Home Sweet Home
For millions of locals, but for us, only for 4 days after we earned our freedom badges from Koki and Kseniya
2.5 metres by 4 metres, induction hot plate, washer, toilet, half tub and shower, fridge– steal of an Airbnb rental for $60
Two weeks in and we’re still completely smitten with Japan. For travellers, it can’t be any friendlier. The only downside has been Trish’s migraines and a banged up heel. We extended our trip for a week but pain has earn into her precious supply of meds. Many thanks to Mary G for having worked so hard and offering to send some, and for researching that they would be seized by Japanese customs. And thanks to Kim, Dave and Ed for offers of help. We have friends everywhere.
Next: Kanazawa
This may be our last post because I think Trish’s sister Terry, fellow wanderer Mark, and my brother Eddy are the only eyes on this—thanks and to anybody else. But if no one else is listening, we can think of one or two other things to do.?
