We expect Siem Reap to be a bigger dump than Phnom Penh. Again Cambodia surpises us. It’s buffed clean and built up with western money, largley because of the magnetic pull of Angkor Wat. It’s compact and navigatable, loads of amenities (eg 2hr oil massage with mini facial for $16–sheer heaven) and is so easy that we extend our stay by 3 nights. Trish absoutely fell in love with this magical ancient city, with its tree lined streets and all the jungly crumbly ruins.
The many temples are the world’s largest religious complex, twice the size of Manhattan –spread over miles and miles of flat plain and thick jungle. Construction started around the 11th century by King Suryavarman as an ode to Vishnu. Most tourists hire tuk tuk drivers for days to take them around. But it cannot be adequately described in pictures or words. It stokes the imagination, enthralling you with its grandeur yet also humbles your soul like no other natural or man made sight or place we have seen. The stone work is intricate and complex at times, other times it is simply and uniformly constructed. The water management system is centuries ahead of anything Europe conceived of.
In many cases the star is the jungle which ensnarls the ruins, as roots of massive trees gnarl their way into and around them, such as at Ta Prohm (think Indiana Jones or Tomb Raiders):
We also prefer the ones less frequented by the mass tour groups, such as the atmospheric Preah Khan Temple with its crumbly, wild feel:
And of course Bayon, with the 216 faces of King Jayarvarman VII:
The Cambodian/Khmer are likely the most heartwarming people we’ve met so far. We suspect their adherence to buddhism makes this possible. Sure scams and tourist plays exist, and only a few years ago people walked around armed. But the humbleness, and sincerity we’ve seen, set them apart from the entrepeneurial, wealth is heaven-ways of China and Vietnam. This is italicized by the many NGOs, and expats who came for visits or service work, who now call Cambodia home. We have ambivalent ideas about missionary and service approaches to aid, yet it’s also inspiring at times. We went to several fundraisers spearheaded by expats and were brought to tears. But we wonder if the overly que sera que sera way of life disinhibits local leadership and self empowerment.
Someday, we’d like to return….who’s up for it?
————————————————————————————————
Favourite food:
Chicken satay (a joy to find tender,juicy chicken again) and fresh shrimp rolls (meatier, thicker paper than most) at the Blue Pumpkin, and the Masala Dosa (in your face flavour and spice) at the South Indian restaurant at Claremont Angkor Hotel
Cambodia by the Numbers:
3.37……birth rate
55………infant mortality rate per 1000
95………per cent who are Theravada Buddhists
80…….percentage of people living off the land/water….averaging daily wages of $0.60
Next: Luang Prabang, Laos
